Caffè Piccardo in Imperia – A Coffee House Full of Stories

Right in the lively center of Oneglia, beneath the arcades of Piazza Dante, sits a café you shouldn't simply walk past. Caffè Pasticceria Piccardo is far more than a bar for a quick espresso. It's a piece of Imperia, a place where for over 120 years people have been drinking coffee, discussing politics, talking business, and passing down stories.

Even from the outside, Piccardo stands out. Dark wood, large mirrors, marble, and the gold lettering "Pasticceria," "Liquoreria," and "Confetteria" evoke the elegant coffee houses of another era. Much of this special atmosphere has been preserved inside as well. The historic Umbertine-style furnishings were carried just a few steps during a move in 2003 and carefully integrated into the new premises. Since 2005, Piccardo has officially been listed among the Locali Storici d'Italia, Italy's historic establishments.

A Meeting Place in Oneglia Since 1905

The café's history begins in 1905 – at a time when the town of Imperia didn't yet exist and Oneglia and Porto Maurizio were still two separate towns. The café was founded by Giacomo Piccardo, who had come from Voltri together with his sister Teresa. What began as a former post office café soon became a modern meeting place, inspired by the elegant establishments of Genoa.

Piccardo soon became Oneglia's social living room. It was regarded as the café of the "signori," where businessmen, politicians, and intellectuals would meet. It's even said that people used to joke that only those with a university degree were allowed in. It housed one of the first publicly accessible telephone systems and a radio that kept guests informed with news from around the world.

 

 

 

 

 

Later, figures such as the writer Italo Calvino, the composer Luciano Berio, and the Liguria-born future President of the Republic Sandro Pertini were among the café's well-known guests. But Piccardo's finest story involves a man on a racing bike.

When Fausto Coppi Stopped for a Coffee

On March 19, 1946, the first Milan–San Remo race was held after the Second World War. Fausto Coppi, already among the greatest Italian cyclists of his time, broke away from his pursuers at the Passo del Turchino and rode alone at the front for much of the route.

By the time he reached Imperia, his lead is said to have already been so large that he allowed himself something normally unthinkable during a bicycle race: Coppi briefly got off his bike in Oneglia, walked into Caffè Piccardo, and drank an espresso.

He then got back on his bike and continued on toward Sanremo.

Whether every detail of this story happened exactly this way can hardly be verified today, of course. But the episode has been told at Piccardo for generations, and a former staff member from that time is even said to have later confirmed the unusual visit as an eyewitness. What is certain is that Coppi won the race that day with a truly incredible lead: the runner-up didn't reach San Remo until around 14 minutes after him.

 

 

Radio commentator Nicolò Carosio described Coppi's solitary arrival with a line that went down in the history of Italian cycling:

"Primo Fausto Coppi… e in attesa degli altri concorrenti trasmettiamo musica da ballo."

Roughly translated: "Fausto Coppi is first – and while we wait for the other riders, we'll play some dance music."

Perhaps an espresso at Piccardo tastes just a little different once you know this story.

A Place for a Short Break in Imperia

Caffè Piccardo is located at Piazza Dante 2, right beneath the arcades in the center of Oneglia. It's a good starting point for a stroll through Via Bonfante, past the markets, and on down to the harbor.

Of course, you can simply stop in for a coffee here. But it's really worth staying a little longer, taking in the old wood paneling, mirrors, and historic photographs, and imagining how many people have passed through this place over the decades.