Hiking with Kids in Liguria: Valloria to Tavole
Painted doors, hidden works of art, enchanting little alleyways and an ancient woodland trail connecting two of the loveliest villages in the hills behind Imperia. Our walk from Valloria to Tavole turned into a wonderful family adventure, with something new for the children to discover around every corner. And lunch in a former village theatre was an unexpected highlight.
Valloria: An Adventure Before the Walk Even Begins
We have come to Valloria to go hiking. But first, we can hardly get the children to leave the village.
There is simply too much to discover.
Leaning against an old stone wall is a rusty bicycle, now almost hidden beneath trailing flowers and greenery. A little further along, a chandelier with bright red lampshades hangs from a weathered stone façade. Narrow stairways disappear beneath ancient arches, while unexpected little displays of paintings, plants and curious objects catch our attention at every turn.
“Look what I've found!” becomes the phrase of the morning.
Valloria, a tiny village overlooking the Prino Valley, is famous for its painted doors. Over the years, artists have transformed ordinary wooden doorways into colourful works of art, turning the village into an open-air gallery.
But the painted doors are only part of its charm.
An old wine barrel has become a table. Books fill wooden shelves beneath a stone vault. Historic photographs offer glimpses of village life in another era. Everywhere, someone seems to have found an imaginative new use for an object that might otherwise have been forgotten.
Nothing feels overly polished or carefully staged. Much of Valloria's charm comes from its slightly eccentric, wonderfully personal details.
Children seem particularly good at noticing these things. They spot tiny figures tucked into niches, unusual decorations and mysterious passageways that adults might walk straight past.
Before we have even started our hike, our little explorers are already delighted.
Following Ancient Mule Tracks Through the Woods
Eventually, we manage to leave Valloria behind.
Our destination is Tavole, another little hillside village connected to Valloria by ancient paths once used by local villagers and their mules.
We choose the shorter route through the woods.
Soon, the last houses disappear behind us. The path winds between olive groves and old dry-stone walls before entering the shade of the trees.
It feels a world away from the busy Ligurian coast.
There is the rustling of leaves, the occasional birdsong and, of course, the children's excited conversations as they point out everything they find.
Sometimes the path is stony, sometimes it narrows between old walls. Wild plants grow in the cracks, little lizards dart into hiding and occasional clearings reveal beautiful views across the surrounding hills.
The Prino Valley is particularly lovely here. Olive groves cover the slopes, small villages cluster among the greenery, and church towers rise above terracotta rooftops.
This is not a walk to be rushed.
It is much nicer to stop occasionally, enjoy the views, investigate an interesting stone or simply let the children explore at their own pace.
Tavole: A Village Full of Character
Arriving in Tavole feels like stepping into another little world.
The village sits among the green hills above Prelà and has retained much of its traditional character.
Old stone houses stand close together, steep steps connect different levels of the village, and narrow passages lead beneath ancient vaulted ceilings.
The walls are uneven, the stonework weathered and the wooden doors beautifully worn with age.
Nothing looks artificially restored or overly decorative. It is precisely this authenticity that makes Tavole so appealing.
One of its most striking buildings is the parish church of Santissima Annunziata, with its pale façade and bell tower rising above the surrounding houses.
We spend a little time exploring the village before heading for lunch.
And lunch comes with a rather wonderful story.
Lunch at Osteria al Teatro: Where the Village Once Went to the Theatre
After our walk, we are ready for a good meal. Our destination is Osteria al Teatro, a welcoming little restaurant with a fascinating past.
Believe it or not, this tiny Ligurian village once had its very own theatre!
In 1861, the village authorities decided to construct a building that would accommodate the town hall, the primary school and a theatre under one roof. The building was completed two years later.
In 1890, a proper little theatre was created on the ground floor, complete with a stage, an auditorium and even a row of theatre boxes.
It could accommodate around 200 people.
Considering how small Tavole is today, it is remarkable to imagine how important this theatre must once have been to the community.
The performers were not visiting professional actors but local people who rehearsed and staged plays together.
The theatre went through several changes over the years. During the First World War, the hall was used for other purposes. Performances returned in the late 1920s, but in 1935 the curtain finally fell for the last time.
Older villagers still affectionately refer to the building as U teatru, the theatre.
Today, the building is home to Osteria al Teatro.
We settle down outside on the terrace and enjoy a leisurely lunch. One of our dishes is tender, slow-cooked meat in a rich tomato sauce, served with sautéed courgettes.
After a morning of walking, it tastes particularly good.
As we sit there, I find myself imagining the scene more than a century ago. The villagers gathering for an evening performance, the excitement of the amateur actors waiting behind the curtain, the audience filling the little theatre.
How wonderful that a building once dedicated to bringing people together should still be a place where people gather, eat and enjoy each other's company.
It is one of the things I love most about these small Ligurian villages.
Behind an apparently ordinary doorway, there may be an extraordinary story waiting to be discovered.
Walking Back to Valloria
After lunch, it is time to make our way back.
We follow the same woodland trail to Valloria, retracing our steps through the trees and olive groves.
The path feels familiar now, but walking in the opposite direction reveals little details we hadn't noticed earlier.
The children are still busy exploring, stopping occasionally to investigate something interesting or admire the view.
By the time we arrive back in Valloria, we have enjoyed a day full of experiences without visiting a single major tourist attraction.
A few painted doors, a rusty bicycle, mysterious old alleyways, a beautiful woodland path and a delicious lunch.
Sometimes that is all it takes to make a perfect family day out.
Two Hiking Options from Valloria
There are several lovely walking routes in the hills surrounding Valloria.
For families with children, we particularly enjoyed the shorter woodland trail connecting Valloria and Tavole. It leaves plenty of time to explore both villages, take breaks along the way and enjoy a relaxed lunch.
More experienced walkers looking for a longer and more challenging outing can choose the route via Santa Marta.
This longer trail passes through the beautiful mountain landscape above the Prino Valley and is better suited to those who would like to spend several hours hiking.
Both routes reveal a side of Liguria that many visitors never get to see.
Just a short distance inland from the beaches and lively seaside towns, there are quiet forests, ancient mule tracks and little mountain villages where life follows a different rhythm.
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Practical Information: Hiking from Valloria to Tavole
Starting point and finish: Valloria, in the municipality of Prelà, in the hills behind Imperia.
Route: From Valloria to Tavole along the shorter woodland trail, returning to Valloria on the same path. This is an out-and-back walk rather than a circular route.
Parking: Look for suitable public parking on the edge of Valloria. The narrow streets of the historic village are not suitable for driving through.
Difficulty: Some sections are rocky and uneven. Children should be reasonably confident walking on natural trails. The route is not suitable for pushchairs.
Best time to visit: Spring and autumn are particularly lovely. In summer, we recommend setting off early, even though parts of the walk are pleasantly shaded.
Where to eat: Osteria al Teatro, Piazza SS. Annunziata 8, Tavole. Booking ahead is recommended. closed on Tuesday
What to bring: Comfortable walking shoes, plenty of drinking water and enough time for unexpected discoveries.
Our tip: Don't plan your day around the walking time alone. Both Valloria and Tavole deserve a leisurely wander through their historic streets.
Directions: From Valloria Through the Woods to Tavole
The walk begins in the church square in Valloria. From here, follow the narrow streets through the upper part of the village towards the small church of San Giuseppe.
A useful landmark is the three fountains (Tre Fontane). Just above the fountains, an old mule track leads uphill towards San Giuseppe.
When you reach the church, turn right and continue for approximately 200 metres. Then take the old footpath branching off to the left towards Madonna del Piano.
This is where one of the loveliest sections of the walk begins. The partly paved path winds through a shady holm oak forest, sometimes passing between high, centuries-old dry-stone walls.
Along the way, you will come to a junction where the longer hiking route towards Santa Marta branches off uphill. For the shorter walk to Tavole, stay on the path towards Madonna del Piano rather than following the climb to Santa Marta.
The little pilgrimage chapel of Madonna del Piano is another useful landmark. From here, the route continues thr
ough the area around the hamlet of Novelli towards Tavole.
After exploring Tavole and enjoying lunch at Osteria al Teatro, retrace your steps along the same path via Madonna del Piano and San Giuseppe back to Valloria.
Important: The road route shown on Google Maps between Valloria and Tavole does not follow the historic footpath. For navigation, we recommend consulting the official hiking information provided by the municipality of Prelà and using a walking map that shows the local footpaths. hiking information provided by Prela
Why We Loved This Walk So Much
It is not always the famous attractions or spectacular sights that children remember most fondly.
Sometimes it is an old bicycle covered in flowers. A mysterious passageway beneath a stone house. A woodland path full of things to discover. Or a long, delicious lunch after a morning spent outdoors.
For us, Valloria and Tavole are exactly those kinds of places.
If you are spending your holidays in Liguria with children and would like to discover something beyond the beaches and the sea, this delightful little walk in the hills behind Imperia is well worth adding to your plans.